East Twin Peak

East Twin Peak in Valdez, AK is a majestic mountain that rises nearly 6000 feet from sea level, offering breathtaking views of the Mat Su Valley, Eklutna Lake, and the Chugach Range. As the highest and most accessible peak of the Twin Peaks group, East Twin provides a grandstand experience for mountaineers and scramblers. With only a few dozen ascents each year, it offers a sense of solitude and adventure. The main south gully route is the most popular, although caution is advised due to rockfall danger.

The trailhead at Eklutna Lake is a pleasant starting point for the climb, with a well-marked trail that leads to the Twin Peaks. The regular route up East Twin involves a mix of class 3-4 scrambling, with changes in the route over time due to natural erosion. Climbers can expect steep scree, boulders, and some exposed class 4 climbing on the rocky ridge. Helmets are recommended, and the ascent can take anywhere from 3 to 6 hours. For those seeking a more challenging route, the East Ridge offers a class 4 or 5.0 option, accessed from Twins Pass.

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